Dehumidifier Size Calculator
A dehumidifier size calculator helps homeowners choose the correct capacity (in pints per day) to remove excess moisture from a basement or crawlspace. Proper sizing prevents mold growth, musty odors, and structural damage caused by high humidity.
How to use this calculator
Find the right size dehumidifier to effectively remove moisture from your room or basement. Choose the condition that best describes your space. Learn more in our guide.
Introduction to Dehumidifier Size Calculator
How to Use the Dehumidifier Size Calculator
- Measure Total Area Square Footage: Input the total square footage of the floor space that needs dehumidification. For crawlspaces, measure the entire footprint of the home even if it is a dirt floor.
- Identify the Current Dampness Level: Choose from "Moderately Damp" (musty smell only in humid weather) to "Extremely Wet" (standing water on the floor or water weeping from walls).
- Specify Average Room Temperature: Note if the area is a cold basement (below 60°F). Cold air requires a dehumidifier with a specialized "defrost cycle" to prevent ice buildup on the cooling coils.
- Select Your Preferred Drainage Method: Indicate if you will use the manual bucket, a gravity hose connected to a floor drain, or a built-in condensate pump to push water to a sink or outdoors.
- Review Recommended Pint Capacity: The tool will provide the minimum pints-per-day (PPD) rating you should look for on the box when purchasing a new unit.
Understanding Dehumidifier Size
Dehumidifier capacity is measured in pints of water removed per 24 hours. It is a very common misconception that a "50-pint" dehumidifier has a 50-pint storage tank; in reality, a 50-pint unit can extract over 6 gallons of moisture from the air in a single day, though its internal collection bucket may only hold 1 to 2 gallons. Sizing depends heavily on the initial moisture level of the space. A "wet" basement, where water beads on the walls or the floor is damp to the touch, requires a significantly higher capacity than a "damp" basement that simply smells musty in the summer months. Using an undersized unit in a wet environment will lead to constant operation and premature compressor failure.
Temperature also plays a critical role in the dehumidification process. Because residential dehumidifiers work by cooling air to condense moisture onto metal coils, they become much less efficient as the ambient room temperature drops. In a cold 55°F basement, a standard dehumidifier's coils will quickly frost over, stopping the dehumidification process entirely and potentially damaging the unit. If you are conditioning a cold space or a crawlspace in a northern climate, you must look for a unit specifically rated for "low-temperature operation," which includes a defrost sensor to melt ice buildup automatically. Our calculator accounts for these thermal variables to ensure you select a unit that won't freeze up when you need it most. Furthermore, modern 2019 DOE standards have changed how pints are measured; a modern "50-pint" unit is roughly equivalent to an older "70-pint" unit from 2012, which our tool accounts for in its recommendations.
Formula & Calculation Method
The required capacity is determined by a baseline square footage requirement plus qualitative moisture adjustments as defined by AHAM standards.
Example Calculation:
For a 1,500 sq ft basement that is "Very Damp," the base capacity is 22 pints, plus an adjustment of 10 pints for the moisture condition, totaling a requirement of 32 pints per day.
Tips for Accurate Results
- 1Always choose a unit with a built-in pump or a gravity drain connection to avoid the hassle of emptying the bucket 2-3 times a day.
- 2Set your target humidity between 30% and 50% for the best balance of comfort, health, and energy efficiency.
- 3Keep all windows and doors closed in the room where the dehumidifier is operating to prevent "infinite" moisture from entering.
- 4Place the dehumidifier in a central location with at least 12 inches of clearance on all sides for optimal airflow and circulation.
- 5Clean the intake filter every 30 days and vacuum the coils annually to maintain peak performance and avoid a "musty" smell from the unit itself.
- 6If your basement has actual standing water, fix your gutters and downspouts first; a dehumidifier is not a substitute for proper exterior drainage.
- 7Look for ENERGY STAR certified models; they use about 15% less energy than standard units, saving you $20-$50 per year in electricity.
Key Facts About Dehumidifier Size
- •Basements in the summer are naturally humid because cool air holds less moisture than warm air.
- •Energy Star certified dehumidifiers use 15% less energy than standard models.
- •Connecting a standard garden hose for gravity drainage is the most reliable way to operate a dehumidifier.
- •Oversizing a dehumidifier is generally better than under-sizing; a larger unit will run less frequently and reach the target humidity faster.
- •High humidity is the leading cause of dust mite infestations, which are a major trigger for asthma and allergies.
- •Dehumidifiers are most effective in enclosed spaces; running one with a door open to the upstairs nullifies its effect.
- •A "50-pint" unit in 2019 standards is equivalent to a "70-pint" unit in older 2012 standards due to changes in testing temperatures.
Frequently Asked Questions
What humidity level should I aim for in my basement?
For health and structural safety, aim to keep your basement relative humidity between 30% and 50%. Dust mites and mold begin to flourish once humidity stays above 60% for extended periods.
How many pints of water is a 50-pint dehumidifier?
A 50-pint dehumidifier can remove up to 50 pints (which is 6.25 gallons) of water from the air every 24 hours under standard testing conditions.
Where is the best place to put a dehumidifier?
Place it in the most humid part of the room, ensuring there is plenty of space for air to enter and exit the unit. If you are using a gravity drain, it must be higher than the floor drain or sink it is venting into.
Do dehumidifiers use a lot of electricity?
They can be one of the most energy-intensive appliances in a home, often using more power than a refrigerator. This is why choosing an ENERGY STAR certified model is critical for long-term savings.
Why is my dehumidifier blowing warm air?
This is normal. The dehumidification process involves refrigeration which generates heat as a byproduct. The air exiting the unit is typically 10-15 degrees warmer than the air entering it.
How do I know if I need a dehumidifier?
Signs include a persistent musty odor, visible mold or mildew growth, condensation on windows, "sweating" cold water pipes, or a damp feeling on carpet and cardboard boxes.
Can I use a dehumidifier to dry out a flooded room?
Yes, but you will likely need a high-capacity commercial-grade unit (LGR dehumidifier) to handle the massive moisture load of a flood. A standard residential unit may be overwhelmed.
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