Attic Insulation Calculator

An attic insulation calculator is a professional thermal efficiency tool used to determine the number of bags of blown-in insulation (cellulose or fiberglass) or rolls of batt insulation required to achieve a target R-value based on your climate zone.

How to use this calculator

Proper attic insulation is key to energy efficiency. This tool helps you determine how much new insulation you need to meet Department of Energy recommendations for your climate zone.

Introduction to Attic Insulation Calculator

Attic insulation is the most cost-effective way to reduce your home's energy bills and improve year-round comfort. In the winter, it prevents expensive heat from rising and escaping through your roof; in the summer, it stops the sun's radiant heat from baking your living spaces. Most older homes are significantly under-insulated by modern standards. Our professional attic insulation calculator is designed to bridge this gap. By entering your attic square footage and your current insulation level, we calculate the exact volume of material needed to reach the Department of Energy (DOE) recommended R-value for your specific geographic region. Whether you are using a blower machine for loose-fill or laying down fiberglass batts, this tool ensures you have the right amount of material for a high-performance thermal envelope. Last updated January 2025.

How to Use the Attic Insulation Calculator

  1. Step 1: Measure Attic Square Footage: Measure the length and width of your attic floor. Be sure to subtract areas for utility chases or large skylight wells.
  2. Step 2: Identify Current Insulation: Measure the depth of your existing insulation in inches and identify the type (e.g., fiberglass batts, loose-fill cellulose).
  3. Step 3: Select Your Climate Zone: Identify your zone (1-7) based on the DOE map. Northern zones require much higher R-values (R-49 to R-60) than southern zones (R-30 to R-38).
  4. Step 4: Choose Material Type: Select between Blown-in Cellulose, Blown-in Fiberglass, or Fiberglass Batts. Each has a different R-value per inch.
  5. Step 5: Review Bag Count: The tool provides the total volume and the number of bags required to reach your target depth.

Understanding Attic Insulation

The key to insulation performance is The R-Value. R-value measures a material's resistance to heat flow; the higher the number, the better the insulating power. However, R-value is only half the story. Air Sealing is equally critical. Before you add more insulation, you must seal the "bypass" points—where wires, pipes, and light fixtures penetrate the attic floor. Without proper air sealing, your new insulation will act like a filter for escaping air rather than a barrier to heat. Our calculator helps you estimate the material, but we highly recommend using expanding spray foam to seal these gaps before the insulation is installed. This "Seal and Insulate" approach is the only way to achieve true energy efficiency.

Another vital consideration is Attic Ventilation and Eave Baffles. Insulation should never block the flow of air from your soffit vents to the ridge vent. If you cover these vents, moisture will build up in the attic, leading to mold and wood rot. Professionals install "Baffles" (foam or plastic channels) at the eaves to keep the insulation away from the vents. Our tool provides the volume for the floor, but your shopping list should include enough baffles for every rafter bay. Finally, focus on Material Density. Blown-in insulation will naturally "settle" over the first 12-24 months. Professionals always "over-blow" by about 10-15% to ensure that the settled height still meets the target R-value. Our calculator factors in this settling to ensure your home remains efficient for decades to come.

Formula & Calculation Method

Volume is Area x Needed Depth. Bag count is Volume / Bag Coverage Rate.

Needed Inches = (Target R-Value / R-per-inch) - Current Depth; Bags = (Area * (Needed Inches / 12)) / CoveragePerBag

Example Calculation:

To reach R-49 (approx 14") in 1,000 sq ft with 0" starting: 1,000 * 1.16 / 27 = 43 cubic yards = approx 70 bags of cellulose.

Tips for Accurate Results

  • 1Wear a high-quality N95 mask, eye protection, and a disposable suit; insulation fibers are highly irritating to skin and lungs.
  • 2Use "Recessed Light Covers" (tenmats) over non-IC rated canisters to prevent fire hazards before insulating.
  • 3Install a "Yardstick" or depth markers every 10 feet so you can monitor the thickness as you blow the material.
  • 4Insulate the "Attic Hatch" or pull-down stairs; this is the most common place for "thermal bridging" where heat leaks through.
  • 5Keep your insulation at least 3 inches away from any old "Knob and Tube" wiring to prevent overheating.

Key Facts About Attic Insulation

  • R-Value measures the resistance of insulation to heat flow.
  • Blown-in cellulose is often more effective than fiberglass batts at stopping air leaks.
  • Air sealing (foaming gaps) is critical before adding new insulation.
  • DOE recommendations for attics in cold climates are typically R-49 to R-60.
  • Insufficient attic insulation is the #1 cause of "ice dams" in the winter.

Frequently Asked Questions

Which is better: Cellulose or Fiberglass?

Cellulose is made from recycled paper and has a higher R-value per inch (approx 3.5). Fiberglass is fire-resistant and easier to handle but has a slightly lower R-value per inch (approx 2.5).

How much does it cost to insulate an attic?

Professionally installed blown-in insulation typically costs between $1.50 and $3.50 per square foot, depending on the R-value target.

Can I just put new insulation over old insulation?

Yes, as long as the old insulation is dry and free of mold or rodent waste. Adding a new layer is a great way to "top off" your R-value.

Related Calculators

Related Articles